by Dominic Valentino
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My blackpipes mbrship application: 2/3 hobbit, 1/6 Garelli, 1/6 MB5 Engine: -opened up Parmakit with a polini piston -custom spacer to opened/jbwelded hobbit cases -puch head hand machined to 46mm, no decomp, no head gasket -Vespa Simo Proline bent and a PA50 header welded in it -honda cdi -'77 kickstart -24 oko on dio block Trans: -windowed front variator, custom weights -Euro rear pulley Frame/fork: -relocated back 3" pivot mount on top tanked hobbit frame -custom cantilever polini seat pan -reinforced subframe MB5 wheels and fork 12v battery and reg/rect, led tail, tomos headlight Coming soon: Homebrew ignition system as well as H20 Kit (Airsal T6 70cc ala vertical peugeot) kx60 radiator, bosch water pump


1983 Honda Hobbit




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Thomas Sebulsky: we r thinking about you.

Dominic Valentino: Thanks dude <3 Wish I was that crafty, tho I actually am starting scheme a way to do that, I've haven't created a variated/chain final drive. To put the mb5 'comstar' wheels on the hobbit you can remove the original hub from the mb5 wheels, carefully (I used google sketchup and patience with a drill press) drill the hobbit hub for the mb5 bolt pattern, and then you're pretty much done. I have the sketchup file I used as template if nebody is interested. Now, MB5 wheels are 18" and the smallest diameter tires I could find were zaps in 2.5 inch, depending on your belt setup you'll need to modfiy( read hammer and or cut) the center section of the subframe so that the tire doesn't rub, I had to hammer the center box and angle grind this little tab to get the wheel enough room for belt adjustments. FInally, comstar wheels like the ones on the MB5 kinda suck, both wheels I got which looked to be in very nice shape (great paint) were very badly out of true with lots of runout, and the rear wheels metal plates at the hub were cracked at 5 out of six of the places where the three bolts go through the hub. I have welded these back up and placed three additional threaded m6 bolts in the hub to reinforce the rear, but to be honest the rear wheel kinda freaks me out. I was able to true both wheels to a reasonable amount of run out using some wood clamps. Still I'll be interested to see what happens when the H20 kit spins these up, will it break? I sure do think they look swell tho <3 That being said, these larger wheels along with the heavily reinforced subrframe, top bar and MB5 forks make for a stable smooth ride, partly due to added weight mee thinks. Also, Will I am running the cylinder you sold me ^.^

WillD: how the fuck do you have a chain driven rear wheel on there? this is way more in depth than it looks on the surface. crazy fuckin build.